![]() I estimate that lubing my chain after every ride triples the life of my chains and cassettes.The Yelli Screamy is a frame designed by Canfield Brothers out of Utah. You can suction-refill the tiny applicator bottles that the local bike shops usually sell and a liter will last you at least 3 years of daily riding. I use Pedro’s GO lube which you can get a liter of for only $9.89 from bikeman right here. Lubing your chain before every ride is the best thing you can do to save money on chains and cassettes. The chain and cassette will generally stretch together and if the chain is skipping it is almost always because the chain stretch has outpaced the cassette wear (unless there is a bent cog). That being said I have a chain stretch tool and I don’t swap the chains when the chain stretch tool tells me to, only when the chain starts skipping on the cassette. The most use I get out of once cassette is 2 full chains worth and after that, I always swap the cassette out for the third new chain. If the cassette is already heavily worn then it makes little sense to set it up with an unstretched chain as you are begging for skips, jumps and possibly catastrophic chain failure. If it skips in more than one gear, I will generally just swap out the cassette. When I swap out the chain I will often try it with the existing worn cassette. You can clearly see the wear from the old separated-cog cassette You want to configure your ebike so that you are riding with the middle cogs most of the time, that will help keep the wear even on your cassette. I tend to save that for when I want the highest top speed on the flats. I do the same thing with the lowest racing cog (11T on this cassette). This keeps wear down on the biggest ring which I tend to reserve for very deep powder or super steep hills. When riding a cassette I tend to favor the granny that is 2 or 3 grannies in from the mega granny. I would not recommend this for a number of reasons, the primary one being that a properly worn cassette will have about equal wear on most of the gears. I’m not sure why most companies do this, but I presume it is because sometimes people have one or two cogs that are troublesome and want to just swap out those problem cogs in the cogset. Most cassettes I’ve purchased over the years allow you to separate the individual cogs. ![]() Before you know it, the freehub body is so bad that it is nearly impossible to get the cogs off. The cogs eat into expensive aluminum freehub bodies: When the cassette is steel and the cogs are loose and separate then under high power they tend to eat away at the aluminum freehub body. ![]() Once the cogs bend it is nearly impossible to get them to bend back properly, even if removed and squeezed on a bench vice. I’ve had several cassettes where the teeth have bent, or in one case with an aluminum 42T granny and a 60 amp BBSHD controller, there was a catastrophic failure of the entire granny gear. The cogs will bend : This is usually a problem with one of the three grannies.Sometimes if you replace the chain you have to replace the cassette because the old worn cassette will skip with an unstretched new chain. They can wear out very quickly : As the chain stretches the notches deepen and get farther apart.There are 3 primary issues with high power mid drives and cassettes This is the first cassette that has been tough enough for me to write an article about cassette durability This article will discuss the myriad of problems with cassettes and high power mid drives and why I believe the CS-HG62 will perform exceptionally well under high-power mid-drive singletrack riding. All that changed when I decided to spring for a new $32 CS-HG62 11-36T 10sp new take-off cassette from bikewagon on ebay and threw it on my Phat Phuk ebike. On average I tend to burn through about one cassette every 2-3 months and I have yet to find one that I think will hold up under a high power mid drive for any real period of time. If you are using higher power levels like the W Ludicrous BBSHD controller or the 3000W Cyclone motor then you will find that normal cassettes start to become a real problem. When running a ‘low power’ mid drive like the BBS02 that peaks out at about 1300W you can get away with using almost any nickel-plated steel cassette on the market and you generally will not have to deal with catastrophic failures. High power mid drives ebikes are great, in fact I believe that at power levels less than 4000W there is nothing else out there that can compete with a mid drive ebike.
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